The quick guide to Montréal
By Gary Lawrence

Montreal is a city of atmosphere, ethnicity, and nightlife, a city that is smart yet bohemian at heart, Montréal is a place to be lived in rather than visited, and it is worth more than a cursory sojourn. But for visitors passing through this metropolis of cosmopolitan pleasure and lifestyle, here are a few suggestions of things to see and do on the fly.

Very rushed

-First, head down to Old Montréal, an absolute must because this old quarter is unique in North America. Explore the narrow, twisting cobblestoned streets lined with 17th-century French buildings. Do not miss the breathtakingly beautiful interior of the Notre-Dame Basilica, the hustle and bustle of the Old Port, the splendid Bonsecours market, the Old Seminary (the city’s oldest ancestor, constructed in 1687), the colourful Place Jacques-Cartier and the museum inside the stately Château Ramezay (once the Governor’s residence) where General de Gaulle uttered the famous words, “Vive le Québec... libre!”

-From Old Montréal, walk north up the “Main” — the sacrosanct Saint-Laurent Boulevard, an unforgettable medley of styles and people. It’s the historic division between the east and west sides of Montréal, the jugular of the city, if you will; generations of immigrants have gravitated to it, and to the area, making it a fascinating cultural melting pot. Similarly, check out Chinatown just slightly north of Old Montréal, or continue north through Little Portugal, the former Jewish district and Little Italy... North of Laurier Avenue, take a detour over to Saint-Viateur Street in the Mile End district, which is bilingual, bohemian, and multi-cultural.

-Urban explorers, haul out the comfy walking shoes: the best way to experience the city’s vitality and variety is to pound the pavement through Plateau Mont-Royal and Quartier Latin in the area bounded by Mont-Royal/Saint-Denis/Sainte-Catherine/Saint-Laurent. This walking tour will not disappoint. Half a day in this area will give you a good idea of the city’s diversity and contrasts and allow you to catch some of its essence: trendy nightclubs, quiet cafés, fashionable boutiques with precious decors, bars of all kinds and crowded outdoor terraces, divine tables and retail outlets of all kinds, some more respectable than others... it’s a maelstrom of urban colour and flavour. Along the way you will cross through the rather seedy yet oddly compelling Red Light district (corner of Sainte-Catherine and Saint-Laurent), the café poser/beautiful people section of trendoid restaurants and clubs (on Saint-Laurent, just north of Sherbrooke Street) and the lively area around the university on Saint-Denis, south of Sherbrooke.
 
-This particular tour is especially interesting at night, especially on St-Denis and St-Laurent, and even on Prince Arthur (which draws busloads of tourists) and Ontario Street, a stretch of which is gradually being gentrified in an interesting way, with restaurants and specialty whisky bars. In the slightly more English part of town, check out Crescent Street, which offers a steady parade of beautiful people.

-- Another typically Montréal experience is a hike up Mont-Royal, which requires no pitons or cleats – just a decent pair of walking shoes. The ascent ends with three wonderful lookout points, each of which offer a different view of the city and skyline. At the western base of the mountain stands the monumental St. Joseph’s Oratory, where you can light a votive candle if you can handle the stairs leading up to the building; and nearby is the peaceful Notre-Dame-des-Neiges cemetery, a lovely 150-year-old necropolis that was recently recognized as a national historic heritage site.

Rushed

-If you’re the type who simply has to have a museum experience when you first visit a new city, spend part of your day at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts (the oldest museum in Canada), at the Museum of Contemporary Art — the only one in Canada devoted entirely to this art form — or expand your horizons at the Canadian Centre for Architecture.

-If you’re a botany enthusiast or just enjoy flowers and plants, head to the Montréal Botanical Garden, one of the world’s largest. Explore the world of insects next door at the Insectarium, where annual insect tastings are held.

-A javelin’s throw from the Garden is the Olympic Park, with the shell-like Stadium and the tallest inclined tower in the world. From its top, you get a breathtaking view of the city, the river, and the mountain. From there it’s just a short walk to the Biodome, which houses meticulous recreations of four of the world’s most important ecosystems, from the torrid tropical rainforest to the depths of the St. Lawrence Seaway, the frigid Arctic to the leafy Laurentian forest. Near the Stadium is Univers Maurice “Rocket” Richard, a tribute to the life and on-ice exploits of one of the greatest players in hockey history. Also nearby is Château Dufresne, a building inspired by the Petit Trianon of Versailles and a beautiful reflection of upper-class life in Montréal in the early 20th century.

-At nightfall, depending on the season, sports fans can choose from an exciting football match – if the Alouettes are playing a home game at the Percival-Molson stadium – or a hockey game at Centre Bell when the Canadiens aren’t on the road. In rainy weather, take shelter from the drizzle in the company of gamers at the Casino on Ile Notre-Dame. Since it opened, the popularity of this gaming establishment has grown non-stop. The contents of your wallet just might expand, too, if Lady Luck is with you! You could fit the Casino visit into a day spent roaming through the floating garden, part of which is Parc Jean-Drapeau.

-In the summer, treat yourself to a boat cruise (King-Edward Pier, 842-3871), to a ride on the bateau-mouche (Jacques-Cartier Pier, 849-9952), or to the novelty of the amphibus (corner of Saint-Laurent/de la Commune, 849-5181); the latter, midway between bus and boat, gives passengers a nice, leisurely look at downtown – from the streets, then from the water. For thrills, nothing beats the Saute-Moutons jet boat ride on the Lachine Rapids (Clock Tower Pier, 284-9607). And for a historic boat tour, take one of the new ferries that ply the Lachine Canal, which reopened for navigation in 2002 (Atwater Market, 846-0428).

Relaxed

-Appreciators of modern architecture will take great pleasure in discovering the area around midtown Place Ville-Marie. Gaze at nearby landmarks such as Place de la Cathédrale, which reflects the Gothic outlines of the magnificent Christ Church Cathedral, as well as the avant-garde tower at 1250 René-Lévesque. Above all, be sure to see the new Quartier international and Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle, and its striking fountain/sculpture La Joute created by the late Quebec artist Jean-Paul Riopelle.

-Between St-Denis and St-Laurent, slightly north of Sherbrooke Street., the grid of streets which make up the Plateau Mont-Royal has row upon row of pretty Victorian houses, quaint dormer windows and intricate rooflines (some designed like the tops of miniature castles). Perhaps the most picturesque of these streets are Laval, Drolet, and the ones on either side of Square Saint-Louis, a pretty, shady little public square.

-Until the end of World War II, 70% of Canada’s personal wealth was concentrated by the foot of the mountain in a district that was once known as the Golden Square Mile; it now forms part of the downtown core. Behind and to the west of the McGill University campus, in upper Westmount, you will marvel at the sumptuous buildings that the scions of industry once called home.

-If it’s rainy or chilly, spend a day in the famous underground network, learn about the First Nations at the McCord Museum of Canadian History, or explore Montréal’s past at the Pointe-à-Callière museum, which stands in the Old Port on the very spot where the city was founded. If you prefer to look to the future, head for the Montréal Science Centre, a vast educational and recreational complex that features, among other things, Canada’s first interactive movie/game called Immersion. In a different vein, stop in at the Juste pour rire (Just for Laughs) museum on St-Laurent; it’s the world’s first museum devoted to humour.

-Francophones looking for a change of scenery or anglophones seeking different cultural prospects will enjoy a tour of the western portion of the city, which has a remarkable architectural heritage. Just west of the downtown core, admire the architectural heritage of the Grand Séminaire (2065 Sherbrooke W.) and its Martello towers, which are the oldest constructions on the island, bar none (1683); the elegant shops on Greene Avenue in Westmount; and a couple of blocks away, lovely Elm Avenue’s ravishing château-style homes. Finally, a little further west is the idyllic Westmount Park (corner of Sherbrooke W. and Melville) which has a library, Victorian greenhouses, and the imposing Victoria Hall.